ANN ABOUT TOWN: Tannin

The first thing I thought about Tannin, in Okemos, is that it’s the kind of place that in a larger city would be a cozy neighborhood joint. Its décor gives off an urban vibe with hardwood floors, wooden tables, and warm orange accents. There is nothing remotely stuffy but it is also clearly neither dive nor chain. It’s the kind of place where a person, a couple or a family could eat fairly often without running out of menu, and where it would never be necessary to dress up (although it might be fun if you did).

The restaurant, open less than a year, bills itself as serving “Italian” cuisine, made in a “true scratch kitchen.” With all due respect to the nearby Olive Garden, the idea of imaginative Italian food in this area is pretty exciting.  It’s also focused on drinks, from wine (hence the name) to creative cocktails, craft beers and flights of everything from Scotch to Grappa.

As it turned out, neither my companion nor I ordered anything particularly Italian or alcoholic. She can’t eat gluten, I was in the mood for a light lunch, and a gin flight seemed like a bad idea at 11:30 on a weekday. That being said, there were several Italian menu items that will probably lure me back: Pasta All’Amatriciana (with Italian-cured jowl bacon), Smoked Mozzarella Gratin as a side, and a Pork Tenderloin with “Sweet potato bacon risotto cake, guanciale-cranberry sauce, Brussels sprouts, spiced mascarpone cheese, and walnut fig marmelata.”

The menu clearly marks all items that are gluten-free, which was helpful for my companion. There were also many vegetarian options, and a smaller selection that could be vegan-friendly with minor changes. We ordered tea and coffee, both of which were sourced from Water Street Coffee Roaster in Kalamazoo.

I ordered a salad-soup combination including the soup of the day, a Creamy Potato Chorizo, and the Bacon & Brussels salad, made with Nueske’s bacon, Brussel sprouts, cauliflower, shaved Honey Crisp apple salad, and an apple cider vinaigrette. Chorizo can be oily, but the soup was a solid combination of potato/cream smoothness and a pepper/spice hit. The salad was artistically plated, creative, and very clearly “true scratch.”

My lunch date ordered a combination of the Bacon & Brussels salad and a Caesar Salad, described as “Roasted red peppers, 600 day aged prosciutto, goat cheese, almonds, mixed greens, roasted red pepper vinaigrette.” (It’s also possible to add chicken, salmon or beef tips.) Both salads are gluten-free, but she is also unable to eat dairy and requested that there be no goat cheese in the Caesar Salad. When it was served, she and the server realized immediately that there was goat cheese on the plate. The plate was whisked away, the kitchen made and served a new order of both salads. The mis-prepared salads were boxed and brought to us for me to take home. The mistake, in this case, was greatly outweighed by the quality of the apology.

I’d go back. I’d go back for a business lunch (they have wifi), or to relax with Captain Carnivore after a movie with some artisanal cheeses and a single malt Scotch. I’d go with a friend after shopping to share some Tiramisu and a pot of Iron Goddess of Mercy Oolong tea. (Because now that I know such a thing exists, I have to have some.)

I’ll be back. Maybe I’ll see you there.